Syrian Cheeses

Charkassiye, Jibne Baida, Surke, Testouri and other Syrian Cheese

May 10, 2007 Debbie Kwiatoski

Syria has Several Wonderful Cheeses that Form an Integral Part of its Native Cuisine.

There is an old folk tradition insisting that cheese was born of a serendipitous discovery by the Bedouin of the Arabian Peninsula. As the story goes, a man filled his goatskin pouch with fresh milk as he was about to embark on a long journey. After swinging at his side in the hot desert sun for several days, the milk in his drinking pouch mysteriously thickened and turned into a solid. Tired and hungry, the nomad tentatively sniffed at the strange product, nibbled it slightly, and to his amazement discovered that it tasted wonderful. It was pronounced a gift from God. As it happens, there may be a good bit of truth in that old story. Natural rennin is found in a goatskin and rennet is the substance that make cheese, well, cheese.

From there, archeology and documentation take over the tale. We know from their clay records that cheese was part of the Sumerians four thousand years before the birth of Christ. The ancient Greeks also ate cheese, ascribing its creation to Aristaeus, a son of Apollo and Cyrene. Cheese also figures in Old Testament as a foodstuff.

Cheeses are important food in the hot climate of the Middle East, where refrigeration has not, until more recent times, been a part of everyday life. Milk from goats, cows and sheep – and even camel - are produced in great quantity in the region and turning it into cheese and yogurt has long been a way of preserving the bounty for longer than a day.

Each country has its particular favorites and future articles will deal with each, in turn. First up is Syria. Some of the most common Syrian cheese are:

Charkassiye - a fresh cheese with a soft texture and flavor.
Jibne baida - a hard cheese with a definite salty taste. Like several Middle Eastern cheese, it is often boiled before eating
Shalal – another salty white cheese that is comprised of thin strands, woven together (similar to Armenian string cheese, that is usually available in larger supermarkets today)/
Surke – an aged and spicy cheese, generally presented as balls covered in ground hot chili peppers. Surke is a popular meze (or appetizer) which is often served with olive oil, tomatoes, black olives and onions. Eating it is a memorable experience, to say the least! The cheese ages well, if left in the freezer.
Testouri- Probably introduced to the region by the Ottoman Turks, it is a cheese popular throughout the entire Middle East. It is made from sheep or goat milk, and is usually served shaped like an orange. Testouri is also usually salted and should be eaten fresh.
Turkomani – almost the opposite of Surke, it is a soft cheese, light and filled with tiny holes, with a delicate flavor.

The copyright of the article Syrian Cheeses in Middle Eastern Cuisine is owned by Debbie Kwiatoski. Permission to republish Syrian Cheeses in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.